I caved

That’s right, I caved. This past weekend I bought A devastator squad so that I can build some new marines with Grav-Cannons. But that is not what I really mean when I say I caved. I also bought a Command Squad and a box of bikers. I was doing so well on not spending money, but no, I had to cave. Why do I think I caved when I mention these?

Well, for the past couple of weeks I wanted to play test a command squad for Isurus and the second Company of Carcharodons. However, I was never actually able to get that game in. Every time I would come close, something would come up. Either I would play the Tyranids, or need to play a more competitive game, or just not even get a game in. So I caved, bought the two boxes, and began my conversions. Am I 100% happy with the conversions? No. But I am happy over all.

First, we have the Chapter Champion. I like his pose and that I was able to add the shield. The final goal, after some sanding, is to add the Carcharodon emblem to the shield.

Champion 2Champion 1

Second we have an Apothecary on a bike. Thanks to someone pointing it out to be, this unit will be 3+ Armour save, 4+ cover save, and now have a 5+ Feel No Pain, all with a toughness 5. I don’t like where the left arm ended up, but it could have been worse.

Apoth 1

Speaking of worse, now we come to the banner bearer. I really wanted my command squad to have one. But none of the banners looked correct. They all looked static. So I just tried to make it look like this one guy was carrying it off to the side. The final goal may be to get a banner from a Raven Wing bike squad and convert that into a Carcharodon Banner. But for now, this banner will have to do.

Banner 1

Banner 2

All that is left is for me to build a few more bikers, armed with power swords. Then, I will be happy with my command squad… well, maybe after they are painted.

Severus’ Guide to Magnetizing!

Howdy everyone!  Severus here and today I want to talk about magnets!  I love them and use them on everything. Infantry, monstrous creatures, vehicles, flyers, bikes, you name it, I can magnetize it (and probably have).  I use them for all kinds of purposes, but the most common is to allow a particular model the option to switch armament.  Today I wanted to give you guys a tutorial on the common techniques I use when magnetizing models.

In my experience, the easiest thing to magnetize is a vehicle. Of those the landraider is a great example.  It can have 3 different weapon options and uses several different methods to get all those parts on there.  I just so happen to have picked up a use redeemer/crusaider this weekend and thought it would be a great chance to make a demo of it.

20150301_070418In terms of supplies, this is what you will probably need on hand.  Obviously magnets, I used 1/8th inch diameter disc magnets.  You can get them online pretty cheap.  I usually have a hand drill with a small drill bit to make pilot holes and a large drill bit that is the size of the magnet (in this case 1/8th inch). For this particular project, I like to use picture hangers to make braces (you only need 4) as well as some side cutters to work them.  I also use a hobby knife to help clean up holes and place magnets (I use a scaple).  Super glue is great for fixing things in place, I also use an accelerator (zip kicker).

20150301_070437In terms of a drill, a lot of guys like dremel’s.  I am a bit more utilitarian, so I use my trusty power drill.  If you go that route, I have a tip for you.  Hold the drill still on a table and manipulate the piece you are drilling with the other hand.  Just be careful that you don’t drill your own fingers.  Plus large drills like this can have a lot of power, be careful!

20150301_065942 20150301_070007In terms of the landraider, assemble it into the above components.  Iron Hand doors are optional.  We are going to magnetize the weapon options to be interchangeable on the sponson and the sponson to the chassis.  I like the have the sponson removable for 2 reasons.  First, because my KR foam is designed for landrainders without sponsons.  The second is when a weapon is destroyed, I can remove it from the model.  Helps me remember.

20150301_070609First, take on of the picture hangers and trim it down with the side cutters. The bottom piece in the picture above is what we need.


These pieces hold a magnet nicely!  Now we just need to mount them in the landraider.

20150301_070808I leaved a magnet on the metal piece and place it in the landraider (just place the magnets on the metal parts, don’t glue them, they are only space holders).  I then dry fit the sponson on to make sure the metal piece is at the right depth.  You can mark the edge with a marker to so you know where to glue it.

20150301_071303Repeat this process with the landraider upside down for a metal piece on the top of the mount.

20150301_071359Next, I paint a large amount of black paint onto the magnets.  You want a big puddle of it.

20150301_071451When you dry fit the sponson in again, it should mark areas the magnets contact.

20150301_071549Next I use the drill and 1/8th drill bit to drill into the back of the sponson.  All you need to do is make a slight hole so that the magent sits in it.  Don’t drill all the way through.

20150301_071728I then put a drop of glue in each hole.  I use the hobby knife to slide the magnets into the hole.  Polarity of the magnets is not important, they will be sticking to the metal brackets, not other magnets.  Then I use some accelerator to fix them in place.

20150301_071756Once everything is dry, you can test the sponson out.  Two magnets gives an adequate hold.  If you feel like you want more stability, add additional metal brackets and magnets.

20150301_181903Next up is the magnetizing the weapons to the sponsons.  First trim off the pegs from the main weapon support as seen on the right sponson above.

20150301_182033Drill a small pilot hole with the hand drill.  It doesn’t have to be all the way through.  Just enough to guide the 1/8th drill bit as it gets started.  The 1/8th inch hole goes completely through the support as shown above.

20150301_182140Next, I stack 2 magnets and place them in the hole.  Use super glue and accelerator as before.

20150301_182750Next up, drill all the components.  This is an easy step, most of the parts already have a whole that is close to the right size for our magnets.  Use the 1/8th inch drill bit to widen them enough to fit a magnet.

20150301_183221Organize the components into right and left sponsons.  This is the point where we need to make sure we get the polarity correct.  I put a small stack of magnets on each side of the center support.  It is important to get outside magnets on outside parts and inside on inside.  Mess this part up and it is a lot of work to get fixed.

20150301_183310Now we just take magnets from the appropriate side of the sponson support and insert them into the pre drilled pieces.

20150301_183634 20150301_183612Now we have weapon options that are interchangeable.  Next up the outside plate.

20150301_184223Drill and place magnets in the rectangular holes meant to accept the outside armor plate.  This part is a bit tricky, so go slow with the drill.

20150301_184259These are the inside of the outside armor plate.  We need to trim of the rectangular peg.

20150301_184334Shave the rough parts down smooth with a hobby knife.

20150301_184348Now we can use the left over metal brackets to make metal plates for the inside of the armored plate.

20150301_184439Trim them down with the side cutters to the shown size.

20150301_184534Now all you due is super glue the metal plates in place.

20150301_184754 20150301_184742Now we have a fully magnetized redeemer or crusader.  Now all you need is to scoop up the twin linked heavy bolter and the two twin linked lascannons from ebay and we can run all three options!

That about wraps up this tutorial.  Like I said before, vehicles are great things to start working with.  Large models mean larger magnets.  Larger magnets mean larger tools, so the job is a bit easier.  Infantry and monstrous creatures can be a bit trickier.  Regardless, if you take your time and put in the effort, you can really get some cool things done.  Until next time, this is Severus saying have a good one and take it easy!


The Myth of Old One Eye

Last week Severus posted a blog about a campaign that he was creating. While he was doing working on that, I was trying to write a scenario around Old One Eye and his story in the Tyranid Codex. As I have posted on this blog before, I have been working on the Old One Eye model for a couple of weeks now, and I finally completed him. After completing the model, I decided that I wanted to play a fluffy game against the Primarch and his Ultramarines, but I wanted the game to be something different. I wanted to limit both him and myself in the units we were able to take. The following is what I came up with. Oh, and there are some pictures of my Old One Eye.

Old One Eye 5

Echoes of War: Cleansing of Calth

Following the Tyrannic War of the Ultramar System, the Ultramarines received a distress signal from the plant of Calth. Sargent Telion heeded their cries for help; little did he know he would end up as part of the legend of Old One Eye…

The Armies

One player is the Ultramarine player, and his opponent is the Tyranid Player. All units must be from their respective faction.
The Ultramarine player must include Sgt. Telion and one unit of Tyrannic war veterans. *It is preferred that drop pods not be used.
The Tyranid player must include Old One Eye and cannot include flying Monstrous Creatures, the Swarmlord, or Gargantuan Monstrous Creatures.

The Battle Field

Deploy using the Dawn of War Deployment Map, and set up terrain as described in the 40K rulebook.

Old One Eye 2


The Ultramarine player deploys first anywhere in his deployment zone. The Tyranid player deploys second, anywhere in his deployment zone.

First Turn

The Tyranid player can choose to go first or second. If they decide to go first, the Ultramarine player can seize the Initiative on a 4+.

Primary Objective

Modified Kill Points

At the end of the game, each player scores victory points for each enemy unit that has been completely destroyed or is falling back at the end of the game. The following are the point values scored:

Troops – 1 Point
Fast – 2 Points
Elite – 3 Points
Heavy – 4 Points
HQ – 5 Points

If Old One Eye is alive at the end of the game, the Tyranid player scores an additional 2 points.
If Sgt. Telion causes the final wound on Old One Eye, the Ultramarine player scores an additional Victory point.

Secondary Objectives

First Blood, Linebreaker, Slay the Warlord

Special Rules

Night Fighting, Reserves

*Editor’s note – This is for fluff purposes only. Tyranid player should keep his list secret from the Ultramarine player, but Tyranid list should consist of at least 1 unit of Termagants, 1 unit of Genestealers, and no more than 3 Monstrous creatures.

Old One Eye 1



Weekend in Review – Shorereaper

This past weekend was actually fairly productive for my 40K hobby and me. It started on Saturday when I figured the paint scheme for my Alpha Legion, I also got a game in with my Tyranids, and I made some actual progress with my Tyranids models. It’s been a few slow weeks for painting, so this was big for me.

Starting with a quick summary of the game, my mighty Tyranids snuck out a victory against the Greater Good this weekend at Core Worlds Games and Hobbies. It was another 2K game and I took a list that was similar to my usual list, I just changed my tactics a little bit. I had the Swarmlord, Flying Hive Tyrant, 30 Termagants, a Tervigon, a Carnifex, an Exocrine, a Tyrannocyte, and 6 Zoanthropes with one Neurothrope upgrade. My opponent had Fire Warriors, 2 units of Broadsides, 2 units of crisis suits, one of the flyers (why?) and a Riptide. We played an Eternal War game of the Emperor’s Will (with no Impearial army?) and deployed on the short table edges. I will say, I was a little nervous about this since I would have to take a lot of firepower just to get to my opponent.

Some key highlights of the game include me getting first blood in turn two, my Swarmlord failing a charge and dying, the Zoanthropes causing one wound to the Riptide and one wound to a Braodside (which did kill the Broadside). Actually, the Swarmlord didn’t do much but march across the field and then die, one of his worst showings I have experienced. The Zoantrhopes, arriving via Deep Strike in the Tyrannocyte, were cut in half thanks to Broadsides with interceptor. He got three wounds, and I failed all three invulnerable saves. The final tally was that I had my Objective and the Tau had theirs. In secondary objectives, my opponent had Slay the Warlord, while I had First Blood and Line Breaker. If the game went one more turn, I think that we would have either tied, or I would have lost. It was a fun and close game.

As I said earlier, the rest of my weekend was also productive. Our forge world order arrived last week and I got my new Alpha Legion shoulder pads along with my Hierodule. The pads rejuvenated excitement about 30K. I really decided to try and come up with a scheme I wanted to use. I trolled the internet, trolled facebook, asked questions of people posting on the Overlords page, and finally decided on a scheme I wanted to try. I decided to make a test model on a Space Marine to see how it would look. I tried using Vallejo’s Gunmetal Blue with a light glaze of GW’s Waywatcher Green. After it dried I gave it a quick gloss varnish. While it is a little greener than I wanter, I do think I like it.

Alpha Legion

Also of note is that made some progress on Old One eye. And yes, I put him on the new GW base and after getting used to it, I have to say that I actually like the base. Sure, it’s a little bigger, meaning that my opponent will be able to get more models into base contact, but with most MC’s being on oval bases, the Carnifex just seems to fit a little better.

Old One Eye

I will admit that I almost cried when I woke up on Friday morning to see Forge World has pre-orders up for more Alpha Legion products. Especially since I just got my order in, but I have a lot of stuff to work on right now. I have my Dark Eldar, which I bought another Ravager for. I have another Hive Tyrant that needs to be built (which is an example of a MC on a round base, I know). I have tons of models to finish painting in all of my armies.

I was also challenged to build a Tyranid list using units I have but almost never use. It looks like the Maleceptor will be returning to the table, as will my Gargoyles, my Mawloc, and some rippers. The list doesn’t look bad, but I cannot say that it’s good either. But at least I will be facing the Sisters, which means it may be a good game after all.


20140802-013057 pm-48657103.jpg

Hello everyone! The time has come to unveil my Space Marine: Minotaur collection. I chose this chapter mostly because I love the color scheme. Ideally I would have chosen an army with a Roman, rather than Greek background, but Ultramarines, who have the most clear Roman roots, do not have the gold/bronze and red that I was looking for. As for the specific paints to use, those were recommended by the Primarch, and I believe turned out to be a great combination.

I also wanted to use this opportunity to showcase Critical Hit’s new imperial sector scenery, made using the new GW tiles and existing building kits. All of the pictures you see here are taken with it as the backdrop.

Drop Pods
Let us begin with my Space Marine transport of choice. I wanted to build a Drop Pod army, because it is the most unique and powerful feature that this army has. As an opponent, I had felt the shock and awe of this tactic, and definitely wanted a piece for myself:

20140802-013923 pm-49163313.jpg

Besides the color scheme, I used both etched brass and transfers to make my minotaurs look unique. Both come with five greek letters, and it just so happens that there are 5 squads in my 2,000 point list. Therefore, each squad is assigned a letter, and matching drop pod.

Tactical Marines

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This is my army’s basic color scheme, using Forgeworld transfers for the shoulder pads:

20140803-045359 pm-60839577.jpg

20140803-045359 pm-60839824.jpg


20140803-045510 pm-60910752.jpg

I really love the look of these models. The special weapons, unique shoulder-pads and tabards definitely make them unique. I decided not to use the Forgeworld shoulder pads on tactical marines, because I really liked how the transfers looked. Therefore, I kept the pads for my veteran units, starting with the Sternguard:

20140803-051339 pm-62019121.jpg

20140803-051339 pm-62019309.jpg

That’s it for now, see you next time for flyers and HQ!

Hobby Update: Clan Sorrgol

Well, after a weekend of gaming with the new army and writing a few articles on how they play, I guess it’s about time to show you how the painting is coming.DSCN7781

I have finished painting three tactical squads and there three rhinos.  I have worked on the basing, adding some crushed walnut shell for a rubble like effect.  I am really happy with how these guys turned out.

DSCN7780 DSCN7784 DSCN7783 DSCN7782The only thing I am not happy with is the decals.  I have never used them before.  Sometimes I get a wrinkle that I can’t get out.  Other times the layer of matte varnish doesn’t seem to dry right and I can see a boarder around the decal.  Sometimes everything works fine.  I think it is just going to take more practice

After finishing the tactical squads were done, I stared in on the dreadnought.  I have a magnetized iron hands contemptor that was begging me to paint it.  I already had him assembled and primed.  I managed to finish this guy in a single day.  Once again, I am happy with the results.  I even managed to hack up a decal so I could put his name on him “Ira”.

DSCN7775 DSCN7776 DSCN7774 DSCN7778 DSCN7777I really love this model.  It is super easy to pose this guy anyway you want.  I went with him walking over a wrecked ork vehicle.  I tried to weather him.  Generally I want my army to feel a little grimy and dust coated.

That’s all I have finished so far. I will probably do the dreadnoughts drop pod next.  I am running the dread as a venerable dread since I don’t have a lucious pattern drop pod.  Hence I can’t run him as a contemptor.

Let me know what you guys think.  I am having a good time chugging through these marines and I always love feedback.

New Imperial Guard Model Review

Well, new imperial guard codex (astra militara) is out and with it a new wave of models.  I do not play guard myself, but I have always like the aesthetics of the army.  Hordes of puny humans and loads of tanks with all kinds of crazy guns.

hydrawyvrenThe new models maintain that asthetic, mostly.  The hydra flakk tank and the wyvren both run off the chimera chasis. They blend in with the army quite nicely.  The hydra is a pretty close copy of the forge world model, which is a good thing.  The wyvren on the other hand does look a bit off to me.  The stubby barrels on the same frame as the hydra just seem out of place.

tauroxThe taurox and taurox prime is an interesting beast.  The first time I saw it, I had the same reaction most ork players did.  It looks like a battlewagon before the orks got their hands on it.  I got to admit, I want to grab one and ork it up to add a third battlewagon to my force.  In terms of the guard, it doesn’t blend with the army as well as the other tanks do.  Time will tell with this one.  I want to see it on the field (as a guard tank) before I give my final ruling.

commisarA new commissar model was put out, in the new odd assembly that is the norm with new plastic singles.  Overall I like this model (like most of the plastic character models that came out recently).  He has a nice haggard face, and a sweet plasma gun.  My only concern is that these models tend to be hard to easily kit bash, so we may be seeing this guy a lot.

ogrynThe new ogryn and Nork Deddog look fine to me, nothing spectacular.  Side note, I haven’t seen their rules yet, but I would love to see them make the table more often.  The bullgryn though, I must have these.  These are beautiful.  I have never had the urge to buy, build, and paint models for an army I don’t play…until now.

bullgrynI love the slab shields.  They actually look dynamic to me.  I can imagine the spikes at the bottom deploying as enemy fire bounces off them.  The grenade arms look scary, which I love.  The gas mask heads look great, especially the bane one.  The tank tread armor looks awesome, although it seems odd that the imperium can’t afford to make these guys a complete set of armor.

The suppression shields and power maul combo looks weird to me.  It could be that I love the slab shields and grenade arms so much.  I wonder how much I would like the suppression shields and mauls if I hadn’t seen the other setup.

Overall, another successful army release by GW.  I am hearing good things about rules for the new guard.  I hope this inspires more players to dust off the guard.  Maybe even get a few into the army.  Variety, it’s the spice of life.

Kaptain Klaw and his Freebootas

coverI figured it was time to do a formal introduction of my orks, Kaptain Klaw’s Freebootas.  The collection is getting out of hand, vastly out pacing the rate I can paint at.  So, it’s only going to get worse from here.

pantsThe theme behind the army is freebootas, aka ork space pirates.  Who doesn’t love that?  I wanted to do freebootas just so I could have a really varied collection.  It also opened up a few conversion possibilities.  The biggest problem I had was trying to tie the army together while still representing them as pirates.  I came up with the red stripped pants.

eyesOverall the paint scheme is very bright and I like it.  The only complaints I have are the eyes and the number of colors I put into each ork.  I can’t paint eyes well at all.  I can paint lenses, but I can’t paint eyes.  If anyone has a tip on painting eyes that looks good and doesn’t require me to break out a single hair brush, I am all ears.  I also went with a too varied color scheme.  It ends up taking me 20+ colors to finish a single boy.  Which is fine for a space marine army that may have only 30 tactical marines.  But I have over 200 boys…

nobzIn terms of conversions, I did a few simple ones and one or two complex ones.  My nobs were pretty simple, just some head swaps to pirate heads.  The heads are a little small proportionately, but they work otherwise.  As a side note, I am a magnetizing fiend.  All the arms on my nobs are magnetized, so I can switch out weapon options.  I also have some larger guns for them so they can double as flash gitz.

kaptain juniorUp next was the original Kaptain Klaw.  He is a kit bashed mess, but was such a blast.  He is based off a black reach warboss (because what ork collector doesn’t have half a dozen of those).  An arm swap to the nob biker big choppa and a bunch of hacking and chopping until I can throw a killa kan klaw on pretty much finished him out.  After I painted him up, I managed to get my hands on a hawk from the brettonian set, so the Kaptain got his parrot.

kaptain gunThe next conversion was the kaptain with a big freakin gun.  A campaign game put on by one of our own basically called for each army to have a sniper character.  Take another black reach warboss, chop up his gun and add a fusion blaster, a big shoota, and a missile launcher scope, then cover up the mutilated arm with a green stuff bandana.

kaptainThe last conversion I have painted up is the big kaptain klaw in power armor.  I got my hands on a metal ghazzghul.  I prefer metal to finecast.  I repositioned his arm, left off the big metal jaw and tusks.  Then I made a green stuff great coat.  Pretty simple stuff overall, but it works.

I have another battlewagon and dakka jet painted up that aren’t pictured.  My orks are probably my closest army to the mythical 2000 point painted army (a level I can’t seem to break in 40k).  I have close to 8000 points of orks, and their numbers keep growing.  I keep finding deals, or taking some off a friends hands, or finding that model I wanted, etc.

The army will keep growing.  I hear rumors that there will be a new book around June.  I am sure with a new book will come new models, so there I will go, buying more orks.  I still have a few gaps in my collection, mainly storm boys.  And I could always use more trukks.  And maybe some meganobz.  And I really like that forgeworld mega dread.

Current Project: Clan Sorrgul Iron Hands

resized squad 2Tonight I would like to share with you my current project, Clan Sorrgul Iron Hands.  They are the 5th battle company of the Iron hands.  I always fancied the iron hands fluff and thought they looked really good.  After the drop of the 6th ed space marine codex and they finally got some rules love (and awesome ones to boot), I decided I would take the plunge.

This is my first serious attempt at painting a good quality space marine army, and in my mind that starts from the ground up with good quality models.  In terms of marines, I am using the new tactical box with the fine cast upgrade kits.  The models look suitably Iron Hands with a dash of bionics throughout the squad.

This army has no goals of seeing the table anytime soon.  I want it to be a project where I get the models I want and paint them to a level I am happy with before I send them to the table top.  For me, that means taking it slow.  I literally painted this tactical squad one marine at a time.

Resized 3 manUltimately I am happy with the results so far.  My line highlighting needs work, but I think that will come with practice.  I am not entirely pleased with how some of the transfers look.  I am using the forgeworld transfer sheets on them.  My flesh tones really need work (I am literally too embraced to put close up pictures of them up yet).

This group is pretty much done.  I am still missing the storm bolter top for the rhino.  I confess I did acquire my rhinos and drop pod second hand.  The rhino in the picture was the worst conditioned of the lot.  Instead of moving on to tactical squad two and its rhino, I think I will take a break from them for a week or so.  Maybe work on my nob bikers.

Let me know what you guys think so far.  Excuse my ghetto rigged photo studio.  I guess if I get serious about taking these photos I should get one of those little photo booths.